Piscine Termali Theia - November 30, 2013

Piscine Termali Theia
Chianciano Terme


Chianciano Terme is a spa town in southern Tuscany which, like all hot spring areas in Italy, was well known to the Etruscans and Romans in their times. During the 20th century, it became a popular place to "drink the waters" for their health benefits. This was the kind  of spa town that could be seen in Federico Fellini's 1963 movie "8 1/2", with people milling around the "Parco Acqua Santa" ("Holy Water Park") with its spring-fed fountains. The advertisement for one of the bottled waters, "fegato sano" ("healthy liver"), became a common catchphrase, sometimes jokingly, but often in all seriousness. That brand of water still has "fegato sano" written on its label.

The Spring in the Parco Acqua Santa

The town of Chianciano Terme had a building boom in the 1970s of large hotels and apartment complexes, all with the typical and not so attractive architectural style of those years. Then building seemed to stop, and the town got "stuck" in that era. Add to that the current economic crisis, and you have a 1970s town which is not being maintained - not a very attractive concept.

Fast forward to August 2013 - Chianciano Terme realizes that people are more interested in soaking in hot spring waters than drinking them, and a new swimming pool is inaugurated using waters from the Sillene hot spring.  A fabulous idea - and they did an amazing job, building a gorgeous complex of indoor and outdoor pools of various temperatures with jets, waterfalls, and currents. I can truly say that I now have a new favorite hot spring swimming pool in Tuscany.

To get to Chianciano Terme, take the A1 tollway, exiting at Chiusi-Chianciano. Follow the indications for Chianciano Terme. When there, you will see indications for the "Piscine Termali Theia". There is parking free-of-charge just past the entrance to the pool.

  Entrance to the Pool

When you pay your entrance fee you are given an electronic bracelet which you use to enter the complex, and to activate the lockers in the dressing rooms. You then go up two flights of stairs (there is also an elevator) to the level of the pools. There you enter into a large greenhouse structure with three pools, lots of lounge chairs, and a cafè. You will be struck by a strong smell of sulfur (rotten eggs) as this is one of the elements of the water in this area.

 

Indoor Pools

From the indoor pools you can swim outdoors to pools on both sides of the greenhouse structure. On one side there is a very large pool, with an intricate layout of areas with jets, waterfalls, and currents.

 

Large Outdoor Pool

 

 

On the other side there is a smaller pool, but with the highest temperature water.

 

Small Outdoor Pool

The pool bottoms are all paved with smooth stones, which are pleasant on the feet. These stones are also present on shelves around the sides of the pools, and silt accumulates in the spaces between the stones. This silt can be spread on your skin for a mask, and is definitely soothing. Afterwards your skin will feel very smooth. The temperature varies from 33°C/91°F to 37°C/98°F in the different areas of the pools. The water has a sparkling blue-green color, a slightly metallic taste, and a strong sulfur smell. It is rich in carbon dioxide, calcium carbonate, bicarbonate, and sulfates.

The Theia hot spring pool is a great addition to the town of Chianciano, and I know I will be back!

While you're in Chianciano, remember to visit the old town with its charming shops and beautiful views over the Val di Chiana!

 

Piscine Termali Theia
Piazza Marconi
53042 Chianciano Terme
Tel: 848800243

Bagno Vignoni - October 16, 2013

Piscina Val di Sole at Hotel Posta Marcucci

The ancient town of Bagno Vignoni (the name itself includes the word "bagno" which means "bath") centers around a square which in truth is a vast pool of hot spring water, testifying to the centrality of thermal waters to this town. You can see the hot water bubbling up to the surface of the pool like an enormous witch's cauldron. There is something primeval about it - I always expect to see dinosaurs wander by, or some otherworldly apparition, and am a bit disappointed when it doesn't happen...

The hot spring pool in the middle of town

New evidence of the ancient use of the hot springs continues to come to light, as shown in this photo of the old mill pond. I had hoped it was some kind of Neandertal bathtub, but, alas, they say it is just where the water from the mill went after use.

The old mill pond

There are streams of hot water that flow through the mill pond area, and visitors who come to  the town, but do not go to the swimming pool (forgot their swimsuits?), may be found soaking their feet in the healing waters.

If you are interested in knowing more about the history of Bagno Vignoni, you can start by  looking it up on the town's wikipedia page.

The pool at Hotel Posta Marcucci, Piscina Val di Sole, is the first hot spring pool I ever plunged into here in Tuscany about 30 years ago. Now there are a couple other hotels in town that have hot spring pools, but I decided to go back to the pool at Hotel Posta Marcucci, for old times' sake. Plus, to me it is The Iconic Tuscan Hot Spring Pool.

After paying your fee at the entrance on the left side of the hotel, you can use the changing rooms which are located on the far side of the pool, under a sun terrace. There are sun chairs availble on the pool deck and in the gardens. There is also a small snack bar.

The pool itself is very large, and divided into two parts. The hotter part is 35°-38°C / 95°-100°F.  The water is dark green in color and has a strong metallic taste.

It is partially covered, giving protection when it rains hard (as it did while I was there). The depth varies from about 3 feet to more than 5 feet, and it is very irregular. There are underwater benches along much of the edge of the pool where you can sit and soak up the warmth of the water, and the sun (when it's out). There are two waterfalls which emit very hot water into the pool. They are almost too hot to stand under, but people manage to anyway.

 
The hot pool wraps around two sides of the cooler pool, which is 28°-32°C / 82°-90°F. The water of the cooler pool is a lighter bluish color, and the smell and taste are less intense.
There is a thick mineral buildup on the walls of both pools.

I must confess that I love this hot spring pool. I love that in the 30 years I have been going there it hasn't been modernized or remodelled. I love the minerals that have been building up on the walls of the pools, creating sculpture-like formations that are rough where they are new, and smooth where they have been rubbed by thousands of hands over the years. I love that it is in a town with so much history, so attractively preserved, and still in the process of being discovered. Call me nostalgic, but I just love it.

It's easy to get to Bagno Vignoni from either Florence or Rome - just travel on the Via Cassia (SS2) driving south from Florence, north from Rome, and you'll eventually find Bagno Vignoni indicated on the west side of the road. Once in town, follow the signs to Hotel Posta Marcucci. Park in the city lot, pay for a ticket from the machine, and leave it on the dashboard inside your car. It's very easy, and not too expensive, so don't "forget" to get your ticket, because fines are steep.

The thermal waters have a temperature of 49°C and reach the pool via a waterfall which has a temperature of 43-45°C.  The waters are classified as "bicarbonate-sulphate-alkaline hyperthermal", containing calcium carbonate, iron and zinc.

 

The town of Bagno Vignoni by night

Piscina Val di Sole
 c/o Hotel Posta Marcucci
Bagno Vignoni
tel: 0577 887112

Terme di Saturnia - March 3, 2013

Terme di Saturnia

Terme di Saturnia is, I think, the most famous, and most posh, hot spring pool in Tuscany. I have been there many times, but it had been several years since the last time I went, so it was good to go back and see what changes had been made.


Saturnia is in the municipality of Manciano, in the province of Grosseto. Getting there is quite a challenge as you must travel many kilometers over provincial roads. The countryside you will travel through is some of the most beautiful in the world; depending which way you choose to go, you may pass through Monte Amiata, Arcidosso, and Val d'Orcia, land alternating between grape vineyards, pastures, rolling hills of grain, steep mountains, and forests.

Terme di Saturnia is connected to a luxury hotel and resort. It used to be that the public could share the same pool with the hotel guests, and I must say there is something magic about that enormous pool. The bottom is made of pebbles, and the hot water comes up through the bottom at a deliciously hot temperature. It was really something.

Now there are two separate areas - the old pool is still connected to the hotel, for the use of its guests only, whereas a new pool complex has been built for daytime guests.


There is a new parking lot, and a monumental (horrible) entrance to the pools where you pay the entrance fee and go to the changing rooms, which have lockers with keys provided. From there you go to the pools, starting with an indoor/outdoor octagonal pool, from which you go outside to an amazing complex of connecting pools of different depths on various levels, with a myriad of jets, waterfalls, whirlpools, and currents. There are quite shallow areas, perfect for small children, and also an area that is more than 6 feet deep. This is well marked, and only bathers who profess that they are good swimmers may enter the area. The pool is very child-friendly. The temperature of the water varies from area to area, but it is always pleasantly warm. A smell of rotten eggs pervades the entire valley.  

The water comes from the spring at a temperature of 37.5°C / 99.5°F and contains sulfur, carbon, sulfate, bicarbonate-alkaline, and earth. The sulfur gives it a strong rotten egg smell. The water is cloudy white. There is a silty residue on the bottom, and mineral build up on the sides of the pool.


Terme di Saturnia
58014 Saturnia (Grosseto)
Phone +39 0564-600111

If you want to enjoy the hot water without paying a fee, you can always go to the waterfall...


One legend, according to the Etruscans and Romans, was that the Terme di Saturnia were formed by lightning bolts, thrown by Jupiter. During a violent quarrel between the two mythological deities, the bolts thrown towards Saturn had missed, causing the formations.

Terme di Sorano - December 16, 2012

Terme di Sorano

Yesterday I went to the Terme di Sorano. What an adventure! This place is really on the backroads of Tuscany. I won't even try to give instructions on how to get there - I would just get you lost. There are instructions on the website under location. It's quite a challenge to drive there on the rough "Strade Provinciali" roads, winding through the hills of "tuff" stone ("tufo" in Italian). To add to the confusion, cell phone reception isn't good in the area, so my iPhone map wasn't working very well.

I thought I was totally lost when I suddenly saw a large sign indicating the Terme di Sorano with a spacious parking area - signs of civilization. The pool is part of a large vacation residence with apartments and villas inside an attractive gated park. There is a reception area near the parking lot where you pay the pool entrance fee. You then enter the residence through a gate and follow a footpath several hundred yards to the pool.

The pool seen from the footpath.

You give your ticket to the lifeguard who explains to you where the dressing rooms, lockers (included in entrance fee with a lock), and showers are. If you go in the winter like I did, you enter the pool through a covered walkway so you don't have to feel the cold. The water in the pool is warm, not hot. The pool is on two levels, with waterfalls feeding the lower pools. The waterfalls provide a nice massage, but the water is cooler than in the upper pool, and not quite warm enough to be pleasant during the winter. There are no other jets in the pool. The flow of water entering (and exiting) the pool is very strong. This gives the sense of the whole pool area being very clean and fresh.

This is a new swimming pool, built just 6 years ago, in 2006. Apparently there were hot spring waters in the area historically, but for more than 50 years they had dried up. Then, one day, the family dog (an Irish Setter) was digging a hole in the woods, and low and behold, hot water came out of the ground. The owner then decided to develop the hot spring pool and surrounding vacation rental apartments.

The stream that carries the water from the spring to the pool.

 





An ancient church on the property.



All of my Tuscan friends knew of Sorano, but not one knew of the hot spring pool. I think this is because the new spring was found so recently.

Soaking in this pool is a lovely experience, and I highly recommend it. You'll probably want to stay there overnight, or somewhere nearby, as the drive to get there is rather exhausting. One thing that confused me about their website: it doesn't state whether the pool is reserved for the guests of the residence only, so I called in advance, and found out that day use is possible.

The water contains calcium, magnesium, and bicarbonate, and emerges from the springs at a temperature of 37C / 99°F. The water is clear with a green hue, and has no particular smell or taste. There is a rust color buildup on the sides of the pool which makes me think there must be some iron in the water.


Terme di Sorano
Località S.Maria dell'Aquila
58010 - Sorano (GR)
Tel. (+39) 0564 633306

Calidario Terme Etrusche - September 23, 2012

Calidario Terme Etrusche

On Sunday I went to the hot springs swimming pool Calidario Terme Etrusche in Venturina, Province of Livorno. I have been to this pool many times in the past, but the last time was in 2008, so it was time to pay a visit. The owners of this property tend to make occasional changes and "improvements", so I couldn't write this blog according to my past experiences.

To get to Calidario from Florence, take the FI-PI-LI superstrada (free of charge) almost all the way to Livorno, turn onto the A12 tollway towards Rosignano, exit at Rosignano, take the Aurelia SS1 south, exit at Venturina, then follow the signs to Calidario Sorgente. There is a large public parking lot near the entrance.

At the entrance you pay the fee and are directed to the dressing rooms. Lockers with locks incorporated, towels, and sun loungers cost extra. The lockers are in a common room for men and women, with separate changing rooms and showers in other areas. You can enter the pool from an indoor entrance, or go directly outside to the pool deck.

Calidario is a strange mix between a lake and a pool. It is very large, with shallow areas around the sides, and a deeper area in the middle, marked off with lanelines.  The bottom of the pool is covered with rounded pebbles. Because of this, a sort of muddy sediment is kicked up by bathers, and the water is cloudy. It seems more like an organic sediment than a mineral one.

The water is warm, not hot, and varies day by day. The day we were there it was 33°C, 91°F. It enters the pool through two streams where one person at a time can sit to enjoy the small waterfall. Water also enters the pool through springs in the bottom, and you can feel the warmer water as you move around the pool.

Lovely maidenhair ferns grow along the side of the pool, and there is a prolific water snail population as well. Doesn't bother me at all - they are tiny, and you really have to look for them, as they blend in. I must say that this pool has such a lake feeling to it, I am surprised there aren't fish in it! But, no worries, I wore goggles and swam all around the pool, and didn't see anything swimming, except for other humans.

I quite like Calidario, but it doesn't really fall into my thermal bath/hot spring definition. It's not hot enough, and it's not minerally enough. It's lovely to float in the warm water, but I don't get that feeling of regeneration that I do in pools thick with salts and sulfur. The water leaves you with a sort of slimy feeling rather than that nice scrubbed feeling after a mineral bath. The chemical characteristics of the water are listed on their website as: sulfate, chlorine, calcium, and magnesium. I read on wikipedia that the water from the springs also contains "dirt" which I think is what I feel.

I would suggest Calidario for warm days, not cold. The water isn't warm enough for cold days. Also, weekdays when there are less people would be better, as they do kick up the pepples on the bottom, causing the sediment to make the water cloudy.

If you are there on a warm, sunny day, you may prefer to take a dip in the sea at the nearby beach of San Vincenzo. It's free of charge ("spiaggia libera"), unless you decide to rent an "umbrella" and beach chairs from the concession.

Calidario Terme Etrusche
Via del Bottaccio, 40
57021 Venturina (LI) - Toscana

Terme di Petriolo - April 22, 2012

Terme di Petriolo

Today I went to the hot spring pools at Terme di Petriolo. Now, I hope that when you go there, you will have read my blog first so that you can avoid going to the Petriolo Spa Resort hotel like I did. They were not nice at the hotel, and acted like they had never heard of the hot spring pool before, even though it is just a couple of miles away.

To get to the Terme di Petriolo from Florence, you take the "Firenze - Siena" tollfree highway (SR2) south. When you get to Siena, continue on the highway for Grosseto (SS233). After about 23 kilometers you will see signs for Terme di Petriolo on the left side. Take this small country road for about 5 kilometers, following the signs, until you get to the hot spring pools. The entrance looks like this:

When you walk into the reception area you will be hit by the lovely smell of rotten eggs. If it smells that bad, it must be good for you, right? At the reception you can borrow a lock for a locker room if you need one, and rent other items like a bathrobe or slippers. The changing rooms are rather small, but well equipped with lockers, showers and hairdryers.

There are four different pools distributed indoors and outdoors on 2 different levels of the structure. The two outdoor pools, one larger and one smaller, are very hot. I don't know the temperature, but you will feel uncomfortable after about 15 minutes and have to take a break to cool off. Luckily there are plenty of lounge chairs around the pools to relax on.

Indoors there is a very hot pool, in a warm area with lounge chairs. This would be great even in the middle of winter.

There is also a small cold water pool - this was popular with the children.

The whole structure is built on a hill, facing south, with outdoor terraces and indoor spaces in windows for enjoying the sun. There is a snack bar where you can get something to eat or drink while still in your suit.

All of the pools have a strong rotten egg smell. The water is cloudy with minerals, and there is a lot of mineral buildup on the sides of the pool. The water is 43°C / 109.4°F at the source. It contains hydrogen sulfide, carbon dioxide, calcium, flourine, chloride, sulfate and bicarbonate.

Terme di Petriolo

Loc. Petriolo - 53015 Monticiano - Si 

tel 0577.757104 fax 0577.757092   

info@termepetriolo.it



San Casciano dei Bagni - March 25, 2012

San Casciano dei Bagni - Fonteverde Spa

Yesterday I went to the Fonteverde hot springs pool in the town of San Casciano dei Bagni, Province of Siena.

I do believe that this is my favorite pool of those I have visited so far on my tour of hot springs pools in Tuscany!

To get to San Casciano dei Bagni from Florence, you take the A1 tollway heading south (in the direction of Rome) and exit at Chianciano Terme / Chiusi. Follow the signs for Sarteano, then San Casciano dei Bagni. Once you arrive in the town of San Caciano dei Bagni you will find indications for Fonteverde Spa.

You might want to stop in town and take in the views over the Tuscan countryside:

or the enchanting town itself:

San Casciano dei Bagni

At the pool, you pay the entrance fee at the reception, where you receive a terry cloth robe. You can also rent slippers and a towel at a reasonable price. You can use the indoor lounge chairs free of charge, but if you want an outdoor sun chair you will need to pay a fee. Now you head to the changing rooms. You will need a one euro coin to use the lockers. From there you go to the pools which you can enter either from an indoor pool, going through a tunnel to go outdoors in cold weather, or directly outdoors from the pool deck. You can leave your robe on hooks on the wall, or on your lounge chair.

The wonderful thing about this pool is the warmth of the water - I think it is the warmest I have been to so far! The water is 42° celcius / 107° fahrenheit at the source. I don't know the exact temperature of the water in the pool, but I assure you it is very warm! It enters the pool through several inlets on the bottom of the pool, and these spots are particularly warm. There is also a (manmade) waterfall where very warm water falls, providing a wonderful massage. It's fun to try every possible position!

There are also four gooseneck jets which feel great on the back and shoulders.

The water is chalk full of minerals, including sulfate, calcium, flourine, and magnesium. It is green in color, and there is mineral build up on the sides of the pool, and on the surrounding pool deck.  You can almost feel it doing you good as you soak in it, and as you move around, it gives you a good scrub. There is no particular smell or taste to the water.

There is a snack bar by the pool where you can eat something wearing your robe over your suit. The food isn't very exciting, but at least you don't have to get dressed!

There is also a small pool for children. Don't take a sun chair near it if you don't want to get splashed by the kids!

Fonteverde Natural Spa Resort

Localita' terme 1 
53040 San Casciano dei Bagni (SI)
Tel. +39 0578 57241