Chianciano Terme
Chianciano Terme is a spa town in southern Tuscany which, like all hot spring areas in Italy, was well known to the Etruscans and Romans in their times. During the 20th century, it became a popular place to "drink the waters" for their health benefits. This was the kind of spa town that could be seen in Federico Fellini's 1963 movie "8 1/2", with people milling around the "Parco Acqua Santa" ("Holy Water Park") with its spring-fed fountains. The advertisement for one of the bottled waters, "fegato sano" ("healthy liver"), became a common catchphrase, sometimes jokingly, but often in all seriousness. That brand of water still has "fegato sano" written on its label.
The Spring in the Parco Acqua Santa
The town of Chianciano Terme had a building boom in the 1970s of large hotels and apartment complexes, all with the typical and not so attractive architectural style of those years. Then building seemed to stop, and the town got "stuck" in that era. Add to that the current economic crisis, and you have a 1970s town which is not being maintained - not a very attractive concept.
Fast forward to August 2013 - Chianciano Terme realizes that people are more interested in soaking in hot spring waters than drinking them, and a new swimming pool is inaugurated using waters from the Sillene hot spring. A fabulous idea - and they did an amazing job, building a gorgeous complex of indoor and outdoor pools of various temperatures with jets, waterfalls, and currents. I can truly say that I now have a new favorite hot spring swimming pool in Tuscany.
To get to Chianciano Terme, take the A1 tollway, exiting at Chiusi-Chianciano. Follow the indications for Chianciano Terme. When there, you will see indications for the "Piscine Termali Theia". There is parking free-of-charge just past the entrance to the pool.
Entrance to the Pool
When you pay your entrance fee you are given an electronic bracelet which you use to enter the complex, and to activate the lockers in the dressing rooms. You then go up two flights of stairs (there is also an elevator) to the level of the pools. There you enter into a large greenhouse structure with three pools, lots of lounge chairs, and a cafè. You will be struck by a strong smell of sulfur (rotten eggs) as this is one of the elements of the water in this area.
Indoor Pools
From the indoor pools you can swim outdoors to pools on both sides of the greenhouse structure. On one side there is a very large pool, with an intricate layout of areas with jets, waterfalls, and currents.
Large Outdoor Pool
Small Outdoor Pool
The pool bottoms are all paved with smooth stones, which are pleasant on the feet. These stones are also present on shelves around the sides of the pools, and silt accumulates in the spaces between the stones. This silt can be spread on your skin for a mask, and is definitely soothing. Afterwards your skin will feel very smooth. The temperature varies from 33°C/91°F to 37°C/98°F in the different areas of the pools. The water has a sparkling blue-green color, a slightly metallic taste, and a strong sulfur smell. It is rich in carbon dioxide, calcium carbonate, bicarbonate, and sulfates.
The Theia hot spring pool is a great addition to the town of Chianciano, and I know I will be back!
While you're in Chianciano, remember to visit the old town with its charming shops and beautiful views over the Val di Chiana!
Piscine Termali Theia
Piazza Marconi
53042 Chianciano Terme
Tel: 848800243
