Terme di Sorano - December 16, 2012

Terme di Sorano

Yesterday I went to the Terme di Sorano. What an adventure! This place is really on the backroads of Tuscany. I won't even try to give instructions on how to get there - I would just get you lost. There are instructions on the website under location. It's quite a challenge to drive there on the rough "Strade Provinciali" roads, winding through the hills of "tuff" stone ("tufo" in Italian). To add to the confusion, cell phone reception isn't good in the area, so my iPhone map wasn't working very well.

I thought I was totally lost when I suddenly saw a large sign indicating the Terme di Sorano with a spacious parking area - signs of civilization. The pool is part of a large vacation residence with apartments and villas inside an attractive gated park. There is a reception area near the parking lot where you pay the pool entrance fee. You then enter the residence through a gate and follow a footpath several hundred yards to the pool.

The pool seen from the footpath.

You give your ticket to the lifeguard who explains to you where the dressing rooms, lockers (included in entrance fee with a lock), and showers are. If you go in the winter like I did, you enter the pool through a covered walkway so you don't have to feel the cold. The water in the pool is warm, not hot. The pool is on two levels, with waterfalls feeding the lower pools. The waterfalls provide a nice massage, but the water is cooler than in the upper pool, and not quite warm enough to be pleasant during the winter. There are no other jets in the pool. The flow of water entering (and exiting) the pool is very strong. This gives the sense of the whole pool area being very clean and fresh.

This is a new swimming pool, built just 6 years ago, in 2006. Apparently there were hot spring waters in the area historically, but for more than 50 years they had dried up. Then, one day, the family dog (an Irish Setter) was digging a hole in the woods, and low and behold, hot water came out of the ground. The owner then decided to develop the hot spring pool and surrounding vacation rental apartments.

The stream that carries the water from the spring to the pool.

 





An ancient church on the property.



All of my Tuscan friends knew of Sorano, but not one knew of the hot spring pool. I think this is because the new spring was found so recently.

Soaking in this pool is a lovely experience, and I highly recommend it. You'll probably want to stay there overnight, or somewhere nearby, as the drive to get there is rather exhausting. One thing that confused me about their website: it doesn't state whether the pool is reserved for the guests of the residence only, so I called in advance, and found out that day use is possible.

The water contains calcium, magnesium, and bicarbonate, and emerges from the springs at a temperature of 37C / 99°F. The water is clear with a green hue, and has no particular smell or taste. There is a rust color buildup on the sides of the pool which makes me think there must be some iron in the water.


Terme di Sorano
Località S.Maria dell'Aquila
58010 - Sorano (GR)
Tel. (+39) 0564 633306

Calidario Terme Etrusche - September 23, 2012

Calidario Terme Etrusche

On Sunday I went to the hot springs swimming pool Calidario Terme Etrusche in Venturina, Province of Livorno. I have been to this pool many times in the past, but the last time was in 2008, so it was time to pay a visit. The owners of this property tend to make occasional changes and "improvements", so I couldn't write this blog according to my past experiences.

To get to Calidario from Florence, take the FI-PI-LI superstrada (free of charge) almost all the way to Livorno, turn onto the A12 tollway towards Rosignano, exit at Rosignano, take the Aurelia SS1 south, exit at Venturina, then follow the signs to Calidario Sorgente. There is a large public parking lot near the entrance.

At the entrance you pay the fee and are directed to the dressing rooms. Lockers with locks incorporated, towels, and sun loungers cost extra. The lockers are in a common room for men and women, with separate changing rooms and showers in other areas. You can enter the pool from an indoor entrance, or go directly outside to the pool deck.

Calidario is a strange mix between a lake and a pool. It is very large, with shallow areas around the sides, and a deeper area in the middle, marked off with lanelines.  The bottom of the pool is covered with rounded pebbles. Because of this, a sort of muddy sediment is kicked up by bathers, and the water is cloudy. It seems more like an organic sediment than a mineral one.

The water is warm, not hot, and varies day by day. The day we were there it was 33°C, 91°F. It enters the pool through two streams where one person at a time can sit to enjoy the small waterfall. Water also enters the pool through springs in the bottom, and you can feel the warmer water as you move around the pool.

Lovely maidenhair ferns grow along the side of the pool, and there is a prolific water snail population as well. Doesn't bother me at all - they are tiny, and you really have to look for them, as they blend in. I must say that this pool has such a lake feeling to it, I am surprised there aren't fish in it! But, no worries, I wore goggles and swam all around the pool, and didn't see anything swimming, except for other humans.

I quite like Calidario, but it doesn't really fall into my thermal bath/hot spring definition. It's not hot enough, and it's not minerally enough. It's lovely to float in the warm water, but I don't get that feeling of regeneration that I do in pools thick with salts and sulfur. The water leaves you with a sort of slimy feeling rather than that nice scrubbed feeling after a mineral bath. The chemical characteristics of the water are listed on their website as: sulfate, chlorine, calcium, and magnesium. I read on wikipedia that the water from the springs also contains "dirt" which I think is what I feel.

I would suggest Calidario for warm days, not cold. The water isn't warm enough for cold days. Also, weekdays when there are less people would be better, as they do kick up the pepples on the bottom, causing the sediment to make the water cloudy.

If you are there on a warm, sunny day, you may prefer to take a dip in the sea at the nearby beach of San Vincenzo. It's free of charge ("spiaggia libera"), unless you decide to rent an "umbrella" and beach chairs from the concession.

Calidario Terme Etrusche
Via del Bottaccio, 40
57021 Venturina (LI) - Toscana

Terme di Petriolo - April 22, 2012

Terme di Petriolo

Today I went to the hot spring pools at Terme di Petriolo. Now, I hope that when you go there, you will have read my blog first so that you can avoid going to the Petriolo Spa Resort hotel like I did. They were not nice at the hotel, and acted like they had never heard of the hot spring pool before, even though it is just a couple of miles away.

To get to the Terme di Petriolo from Florence, you take the "Firenze - Siena" tollfree highway (SR2) south. When you get to Siena, continue on the highway for Grosseto (SS233). After about 23 kilometers you will see signs for Terme di Petriolo on the left side. Take this small country road for about 5 kilometers, following the signs, until you get to the hot spring pools. The entrance looks like this:

When you walk into the reception area you will be hit by the lovely smell of rotten eggs. If it smells that bad, it must be good for you, right? At the reception you can borrow a lock for a locker room if you need one, and rent other items like a bathrobe or slippers. The changing rooms are rather small, but well equipped with lockers, showers and hairdryers.

There are four different pools distributed indoors and outdoors on 2 different levels of the structure. The two outdoor pools, one larger and one smaller, are very hot. I don't know the temperature, but you will feel uncomfortable after about 15 minutes and have to take a break to cool off. Luckily there are plenty of lounge chairs around the pools to relax on.

Indoors there is a very hot pool, in a warm area with lounge chairs. This would be great even in the middle of winter.

There is also a small cold water pool - this was popular with the children.

The whole structure is built on a hill, facing south, with outdoor terraces and indoor spaces in windows for enjoying the sun. There is a snack bar where you can get something to eat or drink while still in your suit.

All of the pools have a strong rotten egg smell. The water is cloudy with minerals, and there is a lot of mineral buildup on the sides of the pool. The water is 43°C / 109.4°F at the source. It contains hydrogen sulfide, carbon dioxide, calcium, flourine, chloride, sulfate and bicarbonate.

Terme di Petriolo

Loc. Petriolo - 53015 Monticiano - Si 

tel 0577.757104 fax 0577.757092   

info@termepetriolo.it



San Casciano dei Bagni - March 25, 2012

San Casciano dei Bagni - Fonteverde Spa

Yesterday I went to the Fonteverde hot springs pool in the town of San Casciano dei Bagni, Province of Siena.

I do believe that this is my favorite pool of those I have visited so far on my tour of hot springs pools in Tuscany!

To get to San Casciano dei Bagni from Florence, you take the A1 tollway heading south (in the direction of Rome) and exit at Chianciano Terme / Chiusi. Follow the signs for Sarteano, then San Casciano dei Bagni. Once you arrive in the town of San Caciano dei Bagni you will find indications for Fonteverde Spa.

You might want to stop in town and take in the views over the Tuscan countryside:

or the enchanting town itself:

San Casciano dei Bagni

At the pool, you pay the entrance fee at the reception, where you receive a terry cloth robe. You can also rent slippers and a towel at a reasonable price. You can use the indoor lounge chairs free of charge, but if you want an outdoor sun chair you will need to pay a fee. Now you head to the changing rooms. You will need a one euro coin to use the lockers. From there you go to the pools which you can enter either from an indoor pool, going through a tunnel to go outdoors in cold weather, or directly outdoors from the pool deck. You can leave your robe on hooks on the wall, or on your lounge chair.

The wonderful thing about this pool is the warmth of the water - I think it is the warmest I have been to so far! The water is 42° celcius / 107° fahrenheit at the source. I don't know the exact temperature of the water in the pool, but I assure you it is very warm! It enters the pool through several inlets on the bottom of the pool, and these spots are particularly warm. There is also a (manmade) waterfall where very warm water falls, providing a wonderful massage. It's fun to try every possible position!

There are also four gooseneck jets which feel great on the back and shoulders.

The water is chalk full of minerals, including sulfate, calcium, flourine, and magnesium. It is green in color, and there is mineral build up on the sides of the pool, and on the surrounding pool deck.  You can almost feel it doing you good as you soak in it, and as you move around, it gives you a good scrub. There is no particular smell or taste to the water.

There is a snack bar by the pool where you can eat something wearing your robe over your suit. The food isn't very exciting, but at least you don't have to get dressed!

There is also a small pool for children. Don't take a sun chair near it if you don't want to get splashed by the kids!

Fonteverde Natural Spa Resort

Localita' terme 1 
53040 San Casciano dei Bagni (SI)
Tel. +39 0578 57241

Terme Bagni di Casciana - March 2, 2012

Terme Bagni di Casciana

Today I went to the hot spring pool in the town of Casciana Terme, in the province of Pisa. I went by myself, and that was just fine, except the I do better with a human navigator when I'm driving. I confess I got lost a couple of times both coming and going!

To get to Casciana Terme from Florence, you take the "Superstrada" (tollfree highway) called "FI PI LI". FI PI LI stands for "Florence Pisa Livorno", which are the major towns it serves. Exit the superstrada at Pontedera, and take the highway SS13 towards Ponsacco, which you pass through, continuing until you arrive in Casciana Terme. In town there are indications for the pool, and there is a free parking lot just before you arrive, on the right side.

As always, part of the fun of trying new hot spring pools is exploring the Tuscan countryside. When you leave the FI PI LI, you drive through a land where agriculture reigns over industry, and grapevines and olive groves, solar panels and wind farms, replace parking lots and shopping centers.

The entrance to the hot spring pool is a modern building. To get to the pool, you have to walk through a clinic area, and the directions are indicated by signs saying "Piscina Esterna" (Outdoor Pool) and an arrow. You finally arrive to an desk where you pay your fee. You will be given a key for a locker with an elastic band so you can wear it on your wrist while in the pool; you must leave a document as a deposit for the key. The dressing rooms are very comfortable, with lockers, benches, bathrooms and showers. You enter the pool from indoors to avoid the cold, leaving your robe and flipflops in the hallway.

The pool is large and quite shallow, about 3 deep feet all over. There are all kinds of jets and water falls, and even an area with a strong current. I particularly enjoyed a waterfall which was perfect for shoulders and back.

The temperature is a warm 33°C/91°F, but not hot. The water has a green minerally hue to it. There is no strong smell or taste.

There is a small garden and terraces, which would be enjoyable in good weather - I was there in the winter, and it was better to stay in the water! I think it would be fun for a family outing, as kids would love the pool and garden.

The waters are rich in salts and carbon dioxide, and are 35.7°C/95°F at the source. They do not add chlorine to this pool.

On the way home, you can enjoy some more Tuscan countryside:

BAGNI DI CASCIANA S.r.l.
Piazza Garibaldi, 9
56034 Casciana Terme (PI)
Tel. +39 0587 64461 +39 0587 64461
Fax +39 0587 644629