Piscine Termali Theia - November 30, 2013

Piscine Termali Theia
Chianciano Terme


Chianciano Terme is a spa town in southern Tuscany which, like all hot spring areas in Italy, was well known to the Etruscans and Romans in their times. During the 20th century, it became a popular place to "drink the waters" for their health benefits. This was the kind  of spa town that could be seen in Federico Fellini's 1963 movie "8 1/2", with people milling around the "Parco Acqua Santa" ("Holy Water Park") with its spring-fed fountains. The advertisement for one of the bottled waters, "fegato sano" ("healthy liver"), became a common catchphrase, sometimes jokingly, but often in all seriousness. That brand of water still has "fegato sano" written on its label.

The Spring in the Parco Acqua Santa

The town of Chianciano Terme had a building boom in the 1970s of large hotels and apartment complexes, all with the typical and not so attractive architectural style of those years. Then building seemed to stop, and the town got "stuck" in that era. Add to that the current economic crisis, and you have a 1970s town which is not being maintained - not a very attractive concept.

Fast forward to August 2013 - Chianciano Terme realizes that people are more interested in soaking in hot spring waters than drinking them, and a new swimming pool is inaugurated using waters from the Sillene hot spring.  A fabulous idea - and they did an amazing job, building a gorgeous complex of indoor and outdoor pools of various temperatures with jets, waterfalls, and currents. I can truly say that I now have a new favorite hot spring swimming pool in Tuscany.

To get to Chianciano Terme, take the A1 tollway, exiting at Chiusi-Chianciano. Follow the indications for Chianciano Terme. When there, you will see indications for the "Piscine Termali Theia". There is parking free-of-charge just past the entrance to the pool.

  Entrance to the Pool

When you pay your entrance fee you are given an electronic bracelet which you use to enter the complex, and to activate the lockers in the dressing rooms. You then go up two flights of stairs (there is also an elevator) to the level of the pools. There you enter into a large greenhouse structure with three pools, lots of lounge chairs, and a cafè. You will be struck by a strong smell of sulfur (rotten eggs) as this is one of the elements of the water in this area.

 

Indoor Pools

From the indoor pools you can swim outdoors to pools on both sides of the greenhouse structure. On one side there is a very large pool, with an intricate layout of areas with jets, waterfalls, and currents.

 

Large Outdoor Pool

 

 

On the other side there is a smaller pool, but with the highest temperature water.

 

Small Outdoor Pool

The pool bottoms are all paved with smooth stones, which are pleasant on the feet. These stones are also present on shelves around the sides of the pools, and silt accumulates in the spaces between the stones. This silt can be spread on your skin for a mask, and is definitely soothing. Afterwards your skin will feel very smooth. The temperature varies from 33°C/91°F to 37°C/98°F in the different areas of the pools. The water has a sparkling blue-green color, a slightly metallic taste, and a strong sulfur smell. It is rich in carbon dioxide, calcium carbonate, bicarbonate, and sulfates.

The Theia hot spring pool is a great addition to the town of Chianciano, and I know I will be back!

While you're in Chianciano, remember to visit the old town with its charming shops and beautiful views over the Val di Chiana!

 

Piscine Termali Theia
Piazza Marconi
53042 Chianciano Terme
Tel: 848800243

Bagno Vignoni - October 16, 2013

Piscina Val di Sole at Hotel Posta Marcucci

The ancient town of Bagno Vignoni (the name itself includes the word "bagno" which means "bath") centers around a square which in truth is a vast pool of hot spring water, testifying to the centrality of thermal waters to this town. You can see the hot water bubbling up to the surface of the pool like an enormous witch's cauldron. There is something primeval about it - I always expect to see dinosaurs wander by, or some otherworldly apparition, and am a bit disappointed when it doesn't happen...

The hot spring pool in the middle of town

New evidence of the ancient use of the hot springs continues to come to light, as shown in this photo of the old mill pond. I had hoped it was some kind of Neandertal bathtub, but, alas, they say it is just where the water from the mill went after use.

The old mill pond

There are streams of hot water that flow through the mill pond area, and visitors who come to  the town, but do not go to the swimming pool (forgot their swimsuits?), may be found soaking their feet in the healing waters.

If you are interested in knowing more about the history of Bagno Vignoni, you can start by  looking it up on the town's wikipedia page.

The pool at Hotel Posta Marcucci, Piscina Val di Sole, is the first hot spring pool I ever plunged into here in Tuscany about 30 years ago. Now there are a couple other hotels in town that have hot spring pools, but I decided to go back to the pool at Hotel Posta Marcucci, for old times' sake. Plus, to me it is The Iconic Tuscan Hot Spring Pool.

After paying your fee at the entrance on the left side of the hotel, you can use the changing rooms which are located on the far side of the pool, under a sun terrace. There are sun chairs availble on the pool deck and in the gardens. There is also a small snack bar.

The pool itself is very large, and divided into two parts. The hotter part is 35°-38°C / 95°-100°F.  The water is dark green in color and has a strong metallic taste.

It is partially covered, giving protection when it rains hard (as it did while I was there). The depth varies from about 3 feet to more than 5 feet, and it is very irregular. There are underwater benches along much of the edge of the pool where you can sit and soak up the warmth of the water, and the sun (when it's out). There are two waterfalls which emit very hot water into the pool. They are almost too hot to stand under, but people manage to anyway.

 
The hot pool wraps around two sides of the cooler pool, which is 28°-32°C / 82°-90°F. The water of the cooler pool is a lighter bluish color, and the smell and taste are less intense.
There is a thick mineral buildup on the walls of both pools.

I must confess that I love this hot spring pool. I love that in the 30 years I have been going there it hasn't been modernized or remodelled. I love the minerals that have been building up on the walls of the pools, creating sculpture-like formations that are rough where they are new, and smooth where they have been rubbed by thousands of hands over the years. I love that it is in a town with so much history, so attractively preserved, and still in the process of being discovered. Call me nostalgic, but I just love it.

It's easy to get to Bagno Vignoni from either Florence or Rome - just travel on the Via Cassia (SS2) driving south from Florence, north from Rome, and you'll eventually find Bagno Vignoni indicated on the west side of the road. Once in town, follow the signs to Hotel Posta Marcucci. Park in the city lot, pay for a ticket from the machine, and leave it on the dashboard inside your car. It's very easy, and not too expensive, so don't "forget" to get your ticket, because fines are steep.

The thermal waters have a temperature of 49°C and reach the pool via a waterfall which has a temperature of 43-45°C.  The waters are classified as "bicarbonate-sulphate-alkaline hyperthermal", containing calcium carbonate, iron and zinc.

 

The town of Bagno Vignoni by night

Piscina Val di Sole
 c/o Hotel Posta Marcucci
Bagno Vignoni
tel: 0577 887112

Terme di Saturnia - March 3, 2013

Terme di Saturnia

Terme di Saturnia is, I think, the most famous, and most posh, hot spring pool in Tuscany. I have been there many times, but it had been several years since the last time I went, so it was good to go back and see what changes had been made.


Saturnia is in the municipality of Manciano, in the province of Grosseto. Getting there is quite a challenge as you must travel many kilometers over provincial roads. The countryside you will travel through is some of the most beautiful in the world; depending which way you choose to go, you may pass through Monte Amiata, Arcidosso, and Val d'Orcia, land alternating between grape vineyards, pastures, rolling hills of grain, steep mountains, and forests.

Terme di Saturnia is connected to a luxury hotel and resort. It used to be that the public could share the same pool with the hotel guests, and I must say there is something magic about that enormous pool. The bottom is made of pebbles, and the hot water comes up through the bottom at a deliciously hot temperature. It was really something.

Now there are two separate areas - the old pool is still connected to the hotel, for the use of its guests only, whereas a new pool complex has been built for daytime guests.


There is a new parking lot, and a monumental (horrible) entrance to the pools where you pay the entrance fee and go to the changing rooms, which have lockers with keys provided. From there you go to the pools, starting with an indoor/outdoor octagonal pool, from which you go outside to an amazing complex of connecting pools of different depths on various levels, with a myriad of jets, waterfalls, whirlpools, and currents. There are quite shallow areas, perfect for small children, and also an area that is more than 6 feet deep. This is well marked, and only bathers who profess that they are good swimmers may enter the area. The pool is very child-friendly. The temperature of the water varies from area to area, but it is always pleasantly warm. A smell of rotten eggs pervades the entire valley.  

The water comes from the spring at a temperature of 37.5°C / 99.5°F and contains sulfur, carbon, sulfate, bicarbonate-alkaline, and earth. The sulfur gives it a strong rotten egg smell. The water is cloudy white. There is a silty residue on the bottom, and mineral build up on the sides of the pool.


Terme di Saturnia
58014 Saturnia (Grosseto)
Phone +39 0564-600111

If you want to enjoy the hot water without paying a fee, you can always go to the waterfall...


One legend, according to the Etruscans and Romans, was that the Terme di Saturnia were formed by lightning bolts, thrown by Jupiter. During a violent quarrel between the two mythological deities, the bolts thrown towards Saturn had missed, causing the formations.