Piscina Val di Sole at Hotel Posta Marcucci
The ancient town of Bagno Vignoni (the name itself includes the word "bagno" which means "bath") centers around a square which in truth is a vast pool of hot spring water, testifying to the centrality of thermal waters to this town. You can see the hot water bubbling up to the surface of the pool like an enormous witch's cauldron. There is something primeval about it - I always expect to see dinosaurs wander by, or some otherworldly apparition, and am a bit disappointed when it doesn't happen...
The hot spring pool in the middle of town
New evidence of the ancient use of the hot springs continues to come to light, as shown in this photo of the old mill pond. I had hoped it was some kind of Neandertal bathtub, but, alas, they say it is just where the water from the mill went after use.
The old mill pond
There are streams of hot water that flow through the mill pond area, and visitors who come to the town, but do not go to the swimming pool (forgot their swimsuits?), may be found soaking their feet in the healing waters.
If you are interested in knowing more about the history of Bagno Vignoni, you can start by looking it up on the town's wikipedia page.
The pool at Hotel Posta Marcucci, Piscina Val di Sole, is the first hot spring pool I ever plunged into here in Tuscany about 30 years ago. Now there are a couple other hotels in town that have hot spring pools, but I decided to go back to the pool at Hotel Posta Marcucci, for old times' sake. Plus, to me it is The Iconic Tuscan Hot Spring Pool.
After paying your fee at the entrance on the left side of the hotel, you can use the changing rooms which are located on the far side of the pool, under a sun terrace. There are sun chairs availble on the pool deck and in the gardens. There is also a small snack bar.
The pool itself is very large, and divided into two parts. The hotter part is 35°-38°C / 95°-100°F. The water is dark green in color and has a strong metallic taste.
It is partially covered, giving protection when it rains hard (as it did while I was there). The depth varies from about 3 feet to more than 5 feet, and it is very irregular. There are underwater benches along much of the edge of the pool where you can sit and soak up the warmth of the water, and the sun (when it's out). There are two waterfalls which emit very hot water into the pool. They are almost too hot to stand under, but people manage to anyway.
The hot pool wraps around two sides of the cooler pool, which is 28°-32°C / 82°-90°F. The water of the cooler pool is a lighter bluish color, and the smell and taste are less intense.
There is a thick mineral buildup on the walls of both pools.
I must confess that I love this hot spring pool. I love that in the 30 years I have been going there it hasn't been modernized or remodelled. I love the minerals that have been building up on the walls of the pools, creating sculpture-like formations that are rough where they are new, and smooth where they have been rubbed by thousands of hands over the years. I love that it is in a town with so much history, so attractively preserved, and still in the process of being discovered. Call me nostalgic, but I just love it.
It's easy to get to Bagno Vignoni from either Florence or Rome - just travel on the Via Cassia (SS2) driving south from Florence, north from Rome, and you'll eventually find Bagno Vignoni indicated on the west side of the road. Once in town, follow the signs to Hotel Posta Marcucci. Park in the city lot, pay for a ticket from the machine, and leave it on the dashboard inside your car. It's very easy, and not too expensive, so don't "forget" to get your ticket, because fines are steep.
The thermal waters have a temperature of 49°C and reach the pool via a waterfall which has a temperature of 43-45°C. The waters are classified as "bicarbonate-sulphate-alkaline hyperthermal", containing calcium carbonate, iron and zinc.
The town of Bagno Vignoni by night
Piscina Val di Sole
c/o Hotel Posta Marcucci
Bagno Vignoni
tel: 0577 887112
